May 19
If you’ve been paying attention to our blog of late, you know we’re just about ready to close the book on our Costa Rica assignment. Having passed the midway point of May, we now have less than one month left in San Jose (and entirely too many things we still want to do).
May 16
A bird in the hand is said to be worth two in the bush. We’d add that a lot depends on the bird in question. As we’ve entered the final month of our two-and-a-half years in Costa Rica, D has grown increasingly more intent on carving out opportunities to go birding in the hopes of reaching his target of 700 species in Costa Rica. Last week, browsing eBird hotspots for chance reports of his remaining likely targets, D came across close-up photos of the black hawk-eagle — a spectacular raptor that, while not uncommon, is usually only ever seen high in flight. The photos had been taken at a nest discovered not far from Monteverde and were almost too good to believe. Use one of his few remaining birding opportunities to try to find some of the species that have eluded us or get up in the middle of the night to drive three hours to Monteverde for a chance to see a nesting hawk-eagle? D considered the choice for a split-second, then set his alarm. This was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity: a bird (almost) in hand that would be worth dozens in the bush!
T-minus 35 days. We’re beginning to feel like we’re living on borrowed time. We’ve already cycled through the full gamut of feelings and emotions several times: excitement for what lies ahead, sadness for our impending farewells, relief at not having to deal with the myriad small consternations that are unique to our current living situation, apprehension at the new challenges that await just around the corner, the anticipated joy of reuniting with friends and family during our all-too-brief home leave, grief at losing the close friends we made here, whiplashing to advance nostalgia for all the wonderful experiences we enjoyed but are leaving behind. It’s exhausting, honestly.
“So…what are the coolest birds you’ve seen in Costa Rica?” D’s friend, who is not a birder but who quickly cottoned on to the hobby’s appeal, asked on their walk down to the San Gerardo biological station in Monteverde. That outing during Semana Santa, which proved a bit more adventurous than D had bargained for, ended with sightings of two incredibly hard-to-find birds, including one of D’s all-time favorite Costa Rican species. It also got D thinking about his most memorable birding experiences during our two-and-a-half years here. Some of the birds that made this list are truly remarkable mega species; others are not that uncommon, but we saw them under circumstances remarkable enough to fix the experiences in our memory.
After climbing Chirripo, the country’s highest peak, there was not much left undone on our Costa Rica bucket lists. D joined a couple of bird researchers on a pelagic trip to do an oceanic bird count, checking a small item off his personal list. Immediately after, we took advantage of the local May 1 holiday to raft the Pacuare River, crossing off the largest must-do item that had lingered on S’s personal bucket list.
When D mentioned pelagic birding to his regular birding buddy, the latter scoffed. “Esos pajaros no tienen nada de gracia,” he said, meaning he would much rather walk through the woods in search of colorful songbirds and delight in their dulcet tones than spend a day on a boat squinting to try to tell apart various fast-moving, drably-colored gulls. For D, on the other hand, an oceanic birding expedition held undeniable appeal, not least because it promised the opportunity to see birds he had never glimpsed before.
towels packed, will travel 