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on the quiet side

From Korčula, we made our way to Vis — the remotest of Croatia’s inhabited islands and far and away our favorite place we visited. Spectacularly scenic and wonderfully sleepy, Vis enchanted us from the moment we set foot on its dock.


A surprise storm pounded the Dalmatian islands our last night in Korčula, forcing us to alter our travel plans. We were supposed to take a small speed boat across the sea, but our tour agency decided that the waters were too rough to risk the two-hour transfer in open water. Instead, we boarded a ferry to Hvar, the party capital of the Dalmatian coast, where we transferred to a small speed boat for the 45-minute ride to Vis. The sea was choppy and we were drenched by the time we finished the crossing. Munchkin loved every minute of it, giggling wildly when the boat first took off before eventually falling asleep in his car seat as we sped across the Adriatic.



It was a few steps from the waterfront to our hotel, which had a fantastic on-site restaurant and offered views of the harbor and its old stone church. The marina where the yachts docked was a fifteen-minute walk along the sea shore, so our little corner of the island was blissfully quiet. Vis has a plethora of small beaches and we visited one our first afternoon, though it was not necessary to go even that far to find a relaxing spot. The hotel’s restaurant was located in an open-air, walled-in patio dominated by massive fig trees — the perfect place to spend an afternoon with a book and a glass of wine.


In addition to Vis, the eponymous capital of the island where we stayed, there is one other settlement — an even smaller town called Komiza that is little bigger than a fishing village. Our second night on the island, we put Munchkin to sleep while S’s family had dinner, and then her mom took over baby-watching duties so that we could go out for a date night. We took the bus to the other side of the island and indulged in our first infant-free meal in six months.


We stayed three nights on Vis, same as we had on Korčula, and it’s a testament to how amazing Vis is that more than once one or another member of our traveling party would sigh wistfully and remark that we might have been better off spending an entire week or maybe even our entire vacation there.

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